The Stage is Set
Get ready for a getaway full of the finer things in life at Niagara-on-the-Lake.
Niagara-on-the-Lake has a flair for drama. The former capital of Upper Canada has been fought over, invaded, occupied and burned since it was founded on the banks of Lake Ontario in the 18th century. The town picked up the pieces and went on to become a world-renowned destination for food, wine, history and theater, and I’ve come to soak it all in.
Luxury seems to waft in the air from the moment I check in at the regal Prince of Wales Hotel in the heart of town. Sipping on Himalayan black tea steeped with rose petals in the hotel’s bright drawing room, I feel like a Victorian-era aristocrat at high tea. Only the hat, gloves and jewels are missing. The server approaches with a tower of treats, including cucumber and goat cheese sandwiches, lemon curd tarts and the hotel’s famous fluffy scones.
The secret to their consistency, she says, is in the resting and mixing of the dough. She proceeds to instruct me on the proper way to prepare them: “Take a scone and slice it down the middle, slather both halves with butter, then jam. Finish it off with a dollop of clotted cream.” I take a bite and pretend it doesn’t have any calories. And why not? Niagara-on-the-Lake seems like the ideal setting to suspend disbelief for awhile.
After all, the charming historic town’s central attraction is the annual Shaw Festival, a celebration of theater that takes place each April through the end of October. The 51-year-old cultural institution pays tribute to the acclaimed playwright George Bernard Shaw and his contemporaries with two — sometimes three — plays performed each day on four stages, all within a four-minute walk of each other.
“These are wonderful plays that have something to say and are entertaining,” says Jackie Maxwell, now in her 11th season as the festival’s artistic director. “You may be crying, laughing or dancing at the end of a performance, but you have to come out and be full of the experience you’ve just had.”
The upcoming season will feature 10 productions that range from fanciful musicals and rousing comedies to bold dramas, all designed to entertain and provoke thought, given Shaw’s penchant for questioning the established views of his time. Maxwell, who chooses thematically related plays, has created a line-up exploring the gray area between right and wrong, sinfulness and saintliness, fantasy and reality. “Seeing one piece in the context of another generates wonderful conversations,” says Maxwell, “both between the plays and certainly amongst our audiences.”
Among this year’s productions are Shaw’s “Major Barbara” and an adaptation of his political satire “Geneva” called “Peace in Our Time: A Comedy.” The popular musical “Guys and Dolls” reveals the underworld of New York City, while the plot of “Our Betters” by W. Somerset Maugham bears a striking resemblance to an episode of the British television series “Downton Abbey.” Meanwhile, “Enchanted April” takes theatergoers on an adventure in the Italian countryside, where four war-weary women rediscover themselves among the wine, wisteria and sunshine.
I feel the same restorative energy in Niagara-on-the-Lake. When I’m not sitting in the dark watching great theater, the great outdoors — not to mention a glass of Pinot Noir — beckons, so I’ve signed up for a three-hour cycling tour of the Niagara wine region that offers both in one package. One might think the pairing would have its risks, but Lance Patten, owner of Niagara Wine Tours International, assures me as I sign the standard liability waiver that it’s perfectly safe. “Throughout the day you’re on and off the bike, eating and drinking water in between visits to the wineries,” he says. “The cycling and fresh air mixes with the happy endorphins as you work off the wine. Our guests find it exhilarating.”
And, of course, he’s right. More so than the wine, I’m drunk on the incredible scenery along the tree-lined Niagara Parkway, sandwiched between the mighty Niagara River and the vineyards of Canada’s leading wine-producing region. The entire length of the parkway extends 34 miles to Fort Erie, just beyond the tourist center of Niagara Falls, however the leisurely tour covers only a small portion. The guide stops to point out places of historic interest along the route, including Fort George and the McFarland House, the Niagara Parks’ oldest property, which survived the burning of Niagara-on-the-Lake by American forces during the War of 1812.
Our group of eight proceeds to three boutique wineries for private wine tastings and food pairings. I buy a bottle of wine at Reif Estate Winery and I’m thrilled to find out I don’t have to carry it back with me on the bike. The tour company collects any purchases made at the wineries, and my wine is waiting at the tour office upon our return. I could get used to having things done for me all the time, but unfortunately it soon will be time to return to reality. Until the curtain falls on my vacation, I’m perfectly happy nurturing my other, more indulgent self and living this wondrous illusion.
The End.
Watch: There is a distinct rhythm to Niagara-on-the-Lake’s high season, which revolves around the daily Shaw Festival performances at 2 and 8 p.m. Ticket prices range from $24 to $110. For a schedule and complete list of performances and prices, visit shawfest.com. For budget seekers, a limited number of discounted seats are available through Shaw Festival’s new Wicked Ticket Wicket program powered by PriceWhispers (pricewhispers.com), a Web-based service that allows users to name their own price for select performances. Log on to place a bid and you will be contacted within 48 hours if your bid has been accepted.
Stay: Accommodations include private apartments and homes, quaint bed and breakfasts, charming inns and plush luxury hotels, many of which offer theater packages. The landmark Prince of Wales, located within an easy stroll of all Shaw Festival theaters, offers tickets to a performance, luxury accommodations in one of its Victorian guestrooms and a three-course dinner starting at $260 CAD per person. Traditional afternoon tea service in the drawing room costs $32. 6 Picton St.; 888-669-5566, vintage-hotels.com/princeofwales
Play: Wineries and tour companies plan activities and events during the day that don’t compete with the Shaw Festival’s evening theater schedule, which means visitors can take a wine tour, have time to freshen up and grab a bite to eat before attending a performance. Niagara Wine Tours International offers a variety of excursions into the Niagara wine region. I opted for the three-hour Wheel and Wine Cycle Tour, but the tour company also offers a passenger-van option. Guided tours start at $65. Bicycle rentals also are available for an hourly rate of $12 or $30 for the whole day. 92 Picton St.; 800-680-7006, niagaraworldwinetours.com
Luxury seems to waft in the air from the moment I check in at the regal Prince of Wales Hotel in the heart of town. Sipping on Himalayan black tea steeped with rose petals in the hotel’s bright drawing room, I feel like a Victorian-era aristocrat at high tea. Only the hat, gloves and jewels are missing. The server approaches with a tower of treats, including cucumber and goat cheese sandwiches, lemon curd tarts and the hotel’s famous fluffy scones.
The secret to their consistency, she says, is in the resting and mixing of the dough. She proceeds to instruct me on the proper way to prepare them: “Take a scone and slice it down the middle, slather both halves with butter, then jam. Finish it off with a dollop of clotted cream.” I take a bite and pretend it doesn’t have any calories. And why not? Niagara-on-the-Lake seems like the ideal setting to suspend disbelief for awhile.
After all, the charming historic town’s central attraction is the annual Shaw Festival, a celebration of theater that takes place each April through the end of October. The 51-year-old cultural institution pays tribute to the acclaimed playwright George Bernard Shaw and his contemporaries with two — sometimes three — plays performed each day on four stages, all within a four-minute walk of each other.
“These are wonderful plays that have something to say and are entertaining,” says Jackie Maxwell, now in her 11th season as the festival’s artistic director. “You may be crying, laughing or dancing at the end of a performance, but you have to come out and be full of the experience you’ve just had.”
The upcoming season will feature 10 productions that range from fanciful musicals and rousing comedies to bold dramas, all designed to entertain and provoke thought, given Shaw’s penchant for questioning the established views of his time. Maxwell, who chooses thematically related plays, has created a line-up exploring the gray area between right and wrong, sinfulness and saintliness, fantasy and reality. “Seeing one piece in the context of another generates wonderful conversations,” says Maxwell, “both between the plays and certainly amongst our audiences.”
Among this year’s productions are Shaw’s “Major Barbara” and an adaptation of his political satire “Geneva” called “Peace in Our Time: A Comedy.” The popular musical “Guys and Dolls” reveals the underworld of New York City, while the plot of “Our Betters” by W. Somerset Maugham bears a striking resemblance to an episode of the British television series “Downton Abbey.” Meanwhile, “Enchanted April” takes theatergoers on an adventure in the Italian countryside, where four war-weary women rediscover themselves among the wine, wisteria and sunshine.
I feel the same restorative energy in Niagara-on-the-Lake. When I’m not sitting in the dark watching great theater, the great outdoors — not to mention a glass of Pinot Noir — beckons, so I’ve signed up for a three-hour cycling tour of the Niagara wine region that offers both in one package. One might think the pairing would have its risks, but Lance Patten, owner of Niagara Wine Tours International, assures me as I sign the standard liability waiver that it’s perfectly safe. “Throughout the day you’re on and off the bike, eating and drinking water in between visits to the wineries,” he says. “The cycling and fresh air mixes with the happy endorphins as you work off the wine. Our guests find it exhilarating.”
And, of course, he’s right. More so than the wine, I’m drunk on the incredible scenery along the tree-lined Niagara Parkway, sandwiched between the mighty Niagara River and the vineyards of Canada’s leading wine-producing region. The entire length of the parkway extends 34 miles to Fort Erie, just beyond the tourist center of Niagara Falls, however the leisurely tour covers only a small portion. The guide stops to point out places of historic interest along the route, including Fort George and the McFarland House, the Niagara Parks’ oldest property, which survived the burning of Niagara-on-the-Lake by American forces during the War of 1812.
Our group of eight proceeds to three boutique wineries for private wine tastings and food pairings. I buy a bottle of wine at Reif Estate Winery and I’m thrilled to find out I don’t have to carry it back with me on the bike. The tour company collects any purchases made at the wineries, and my wine is waiting at the tour office upon our return. I could get used to having things done for me all the time, but unfortunately it soon will be time to return to reality. Until the curtain falls on my vacation, I’m perfectly happy nurturing my other, more indulgent self and living this wondrous illusion.
The End.
Watch: There is a distinct rhythm to Niagara-on-the-Lake’s high season, which revolves around the daily Shaw Festival performances at 2 and 8 p.m. Ticket prices range from $24 to $110. For a schedule and complete list of performances and prices, visit shawfest.com. For budget seekers, a limited number of discounted seats are available through Shaw Festival’s new Wicked Ticket Wicket program powered by PriceWhispers (pricewhispers.com), a Web-based service that allows users to name their own price for select performances. Log on to place a bid and you will be contacted within 48 hours if your bid has been accepted.
Stay: Accommodations include private apartments and homes, quaint bed and breakfasts, charming inns and plush luxury hotels, many of which offer theater packages. The landmark Prince of Wales, located within an easy stroll of all Shaw Festival theaters, offers tickets to a performance, luxury accommodations in one of its Victorian guestrooms and a three-course dinner starting at $260 CAD per person. Traditional afternoon tea service in the drawing room costs $32. 6 Picton St.; 888-669-5566, vintage-hotels.com/princeofwales
Play: Wineries and tour companies plan activities and events during the day that don’t compete with the Shaw Festival’s evening theater schedule, which means visitors can take a wine tour, have time to freshen up and grab a bite to eat before attending a performance. Niagara Wine Tours International offers a variety of excursions into the Niagara wine region. I opted for the three-hour Wheel and Wine Cycle Tour, but the tour company also offers a passenger-van option. Guided tours start at $65. Bicycle rentals also are available for an hourly rate of $12 or $30 for the whole day. 92 Picton St.; 800-680-7006, niagaraworldwinetours.com