Extra-Sensory Perception

Art lovers like wine, Kevin Daughrity realized, and wine lovers like art. So why not combine both passions and create a winery to please the palate as well as the intellect?
Daughrity opened Sensory Winery & Art Gallery in Ripley, N.Y., in 2010. The winery specializes in small-lot, blended wines that are as abstract as many of the paintings on the walls. The gallery is a one-room building that also serves as the tasting area. Dozens of paintings, sketches and sculptures adorn the floor and walls.
The exhibition changes every two to three months, and Daughrity creates new blends for each show. 
When we visited Sensory in May, the winery was featuring nine wines including Aberant, a blend of Niagara and Seyval Blanc grapes that creates a sweet Chardonnay-like wine with pear notes; Figment, a crisp combination of Niagara and Traminette grapes with a Pinot Grigio-like taste; Umbra, a fruity, rose wine made from Concord and Riesling grapes; and the intriguingly named Hemorrhage, an earthy mix of Noiret and Corot. All bottles sell for $15.50.
“My philosophy is to create unique wines that you won’t get anywhere else,” says Daughtery, a self-taught winemaker who traveled the world to study the craft. “I only make 45 cases of each wine and, when that blend is gone, it’s gone. No one will ever see that wine again.”
On exhibition opening nights, Sensory goes all out, with imported cheeses from Spain, Holland and Great Britain, among other locales. The artists in each show belong to the North Shore Arts Alliance, whose members hail from Ohio, Pennsylvania and New York. The artists also design the wine labels. 
When we arrive, the artists have finished hanging their works in preparation for an opening two days later. Painter Thomas Annear’s huge canvases explode with color, while portrait artist Susan Forrester-Mackay displays smaller, quieter works with subtle shading. 
“I like abstract art,” Daughrity says, admiring a painting of, perhaps, a supernova. “Even if the artwork is traditional, it shouldn’t look like it was copied from a photograph. But, then again, when it comes to art, it’s not about me.” Daughrity laughs. “I’m not an artist. I can’t even draw stick figures.”
But he’s quick to point out the similarities between creating a painting and creating wine. “Winemaking is a blend of art and science,” he says. “The science part – checking Phs and acid levels, working with yeast – all winemakers pretty much do the same thing. The art comes in when you’re preparing your work for bottling: It’s blending, and deciding on how much aging and oaking you’ll give.”
Sensory Winery is still a work in progress, Daughrity admits. This summer, he’d like to add landscaping and a sculpture garden in front of the gallery so people will be able to enjoy art both inside and out.
Sensory is actually the “little sister” of Quincy Cellars, a winery across the street, which Daughrity also owns. Daughrity holds a BA in horticulture from Iowa State University and an MBA from the University of Buffalo. In 2006, he bought Quincy, a 143-acre spread with 90 acres of vineyards. Quincy’s winery and tasting room are in a refurbished 140-year-old barn that also has a full kitchen – Daughrity also serves as the chef for special events – and a banquet room.
“When I opened Quincy Cellars, I knew I didn’t want to be just another winery with a tasting room,” Daughrity says. “When I traveled around looking for ideas, I saw that weddings at wineries were very popular in California, so I aimed to do that here.”
Quincy’s landscaping features a roomy patio and a sparkling pond. The work, like Sensory across the street, is artfully done.

 
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PERFECT PAIRS
Because the wines being offered during our visit to Sensory Winery most likely will not be on sale when this issue goes to print, we journeyed across the street to Quincy Cellars to taste their varietals. Owner Kevin Daughrity recommended serving these wines with dinners:

Seyval Blanc 2011 ($14.50): This semi-dry white wine has a hint of green apple, and it goes well with summer salads and lemon-thyme grilled chicken.

Chancellor 2006 ($14.50): Another summery wine, this peppery red pairs with grilled burgers with Dijon mustard.
 
Merlot 2011 ($16.50): A hearty, earthy red that finishes with dark chocolate and cherry notes, it is best served with pepper-encrusted filet mignon.

Info to Go
Sensory Winery & Art Gallery
Ripley, N.Y.
716-736-2444
sensorywine.com