The Liberty Hound

It’s certainly a pleasure to sit on the deck at the Liberty Hound. The restaurant is next to Buffalo’s Naval Park, so retired battleships add to the view. But even if the Liberty Hound wasn’t on the water, its inventive drinks and terrific food are reason enough to dine here.

The menu is organized into four simple categories: Shared Plates (appetizers), Farmers Market (salads), Hand-Held (exactly what it sounds like) and Entrees (primarily dinner fare). The menu is the same for both lunch and dinner and it’s largely focused on seafood, which is appropriate considering the restaurant’s location. 

One of the more intriguing appetizers is the Liberty mussels ($12) — served in a broth of slab bacon, sweet onions, Anchor Liberty Ale and smoked blue cheese. But we opt for sautéed little neck clams ($12) with spicy chorizo, garlic, tomatoes, green onions and butter. The tender clams arrive topped with spears of toasted crostini perfect for sopping the broth.

Other appetizers include lump crab cakes ($11) with a classic remoulade and sweet potato straws; crispy calamari ($10) with piquillo peppers, garlic and romesco; and stuffed pepper dip ($8) with both roasted and fresh peppers, ricotta, parmesan, mozzarella and crostini as an accompaniment. We see several of these served at surrounding tables then regret not having an appetite the size of a hearty seaman so we can try them all.

From the Farmers Market section of the menu we follow a friend’s recommendation and go with the half wedge salad ($9), which is very fun and retro. Composed of a large wedge of iceberg lettuce, bacon, crispy fried shallots and heirloom tomatoes, the whole thing is dressed with “Moody Blue” cheese dressing. This clear throwback to the 1960s is well worth reviving, particularly with the update of the added shallots.  

Hand-Helds include fish tacos ($11). Customers have their choice of fish or shrimp, charred tomatillo sauce, pico de gallo, slaw and cotija cheese. Getting into the waterfront spirit, we instead choose the lobster roll ($12). As tradition demands, it is chunks of cooked lobster meat, diced celery, finely chopped red onion and a light coating of mayo tucked within a hotdog-style roll. The menu claims that it’s a garlic roll. Fortunately, we don’t detect any garlic, which would have overpowered our delicately constructed salad. 

Also at the recommendation of our friend, we order a Liberty burger ($12). Why order a burger with so many excellent piscine choices?  Because it is easily one of the best around. The Liberty burger is a half-pound of ground sirloin topped with tomato marmalade, muenster cheese and double-smoked bacon. Served with tasty fries, the burger is flavorful and extremely tender. The tomato marmalade has just the right amount of tang to contrast nicely with the muenster and bacon.  

There are four relatively simple, straightforward entrées. The clams and chorizo ($17) are served over cappellini pasta, with tomato and basil. The fish and chips ($12) is Liberty Ale-battered cod with sides of coleslaw and fries. The steak frites ($21) is a 12-ounce choice New York strip with chimichurri sauce, steak fries and chili ketchup. Finally, there’s the cioppino ($18) — mussels, clams, shrimp, calamari and cod, stewed together in a tomato, fennel and red pepper broth.

The Liberty Hound’s menu is utterly American, in that it introduces flavors from many cultures (Italy, France, Mexico, England, Asia). Head chef John Nicholson can be thanked for that, having spent several years cooking in places throughout the United States and abroad. He brings to Buffalo experience from Indianapolis, Providence, Boston, Dallas, Mississippi and even across the pond in England. Nicholson cooks with locally sourced fruits and vegetables whenever possible. For this reason, menu options change seasonally. Customers can expect a slower-paced, heartier menu in the winter. 

The atmosphere at the Liberty Hound is casual and relaxed, and the service is prompt and attentive. Live music is frequently heard on the patio, though — minor quibble — it can be overly loud at times. Be forewarned that the restaurant does not accept reservations. On summer weekends, this can lead to a 45-minute wait at the bar. This can be an advantage, however.

The bar menu could actually be called “curated,” with inventive specialty drinks ($7 – $8) and a terrific selection of beers (around $6). Owners Jason Davidson and Mike Shatzel created many of the drinks themselves, including Homeward Bound, made with Sailor Jerry rum, fresh-squeezed lemonade and fresh blueberries. There’s also the Lady Liberty, which has Cruzan rum,
mint, fresh lime, fresh strawberries
and blueberries.

The draft beer selection also is varied, with local micro-brews such as Flying Bison Black Bird Stout, Great Lakes Brewery Lake Erie Monster and Flying Bison 716 Summer Ale. There also are drafts from Illinois, New York and New Hampshire, as well as bottled beer from Canada, Germany, Belgium, Mexico and Ireland. There’s even a gluten-free beer.                            

Davidson says Naval Park has been a great fit for the Liberty Hound. “It’s far exceeding our expectations,” he says. “People have been wanting a nice anchor down here.”  

Info to Go

The Liberty Hound

One Naval Park Cove

Buffalo

716-845-9173