Guide to Pelee Island

It’s a curious thing, really, an island paradise loved purely for what’s missing. On Canada’s Pelee Island, there are no high-rise hotels, dress-for-dinner resorts or ribbons of souvenir stands and tourist traps. There isn't even a stop light. It’s why diehard devotees have made their way here every summer, many for generations. And it’s why 300 brave souls put down year-round roots despite desolate, frozen-over winters that give way to sunny summers swollen with 1,500 cottagers and day trippers.

THE GOOD LIFE
Time travel is tangible here. High-speed internet is still a year or more from reality. Cell signals are sketchy and devices sit idle while families frolic in ocean-like surf, ride bikes and line up for ice cream cones. Generation gaps dissipate like smoke as alphas, Xers, Millennials, Zers and boomers gather around beach fires for ghost stories, s’mores, belly laughs and beverages.

Since the 1950s, Ohioan Jeff Jenkins’ family has escaped to the island.

“It’s an ocean away from the city,” said Jenkins. “We travel  20 minutes by plane or 90 by boat to what feels like Mayberry. It’s very mid-century. We leave our doors unlocked, our dogs run loose and the keys in the car.” A grandson and granddaughter on the way are the sixth Jenkins generation to grow up and grow old together in this closeknit community of legacy islanders and cottagers.

With no Uber or taxis, dust-dingy “island cars,” golf carts and bikes roll along 29 miles of mostly gravel roads flanked by glittering lake views and 800 acres of vineyards that feed thirsty Pelee Island Winery (peleeisland.com/location/pelee-island-pavilion). Laid-back locals smile and flip up a hand to everybody they pass. It’s known as “the Pelee wave” and reciprocation is proof you belong here.

No one’s in a hurry and everyone’s old-time friendly, sharing garden surplus and empirical advice for navigating island life (sometimes called PeleeSplaining). Needs are met by the tiny co-op grocery replete with a hardware corner. Cut off from mainland amenities, islanders know it takes a village to keep everyone fed and afloat.

IT'S A NATURAL!
There’s more to Pelee than island-time pace and friendly faces. Miles of Florida-like sandy beach snakes along her east shore. Bushy woodlands, lake-lapped glacial grooves, an ancient stony lighthouse, Lake Henry marsh and Fish Point Nature Preserve invite unspoiled hiking, kayaking and rock, fossil and beach glass treasure hunts. Every cottage displays the requisite glass jar filled with such finds.

Bald eagles and 350 other species, some rare, draw droves of serious bird nerds to the largest island in Lake Erie’s archipelago. Divergent habitats and major flyways resulted in vast avian wildlife and a reputation as one of the finest birding locations in North America. Renowned author and birder Margaret Atwood pen several acclaimed books and poems at Pelee where she sometimes summers and co-founded Pelee Island Bird Observatory with long-time partner Graeme Gibson. PIBO welcomes visitors and inspires bird study and protection.

Most photographed and unforgettable, Pelee sunrises, sunsets and star gazing are thrice-daily reminders of the island’s boundless beauty. As a girl in the 1970s, this writer saw her first-ever shooting stars on Pelee —three of them that night — and has been coming back for its magic since.

SO MUCH TO DO
There’s doubtless plenty to fill a week, especially if you crave stress-free vacations. First stop: Stone House 1891, one of the island’s first homes now the HQ for Pelee Island Adventures, tours, transportation, picnic baskets and Pelee’s top restaurant. Run by a lovely dual-country couple with deep island roots, be sure to book before traveling as restaurant reservations, tours, E-bikes and golf carts needed to explore the island may sell out, especially on holiday weekends like Canada Day, July 1. Don’t miss the Vin Villa tour, a trip through the fascinating history and spectacular ruins of one the continent’s most historically significant viticultural sites. It’s the perfect intro to contemporary Pelee Island Winery, Canada’s largest estate winery crafting an impressive portfolio of respectable wines. The Wine Pavillion offers a gathering spot, tours, tastings, live music on a large covered porch, picnic tables and a deli hut.

Meet exquisite pollinators at Pelee Island Butterfly Sanctuary (peleeislandbutterfly.org) and Teaching Garden. Mission Hall Sanctuary (themissionhallproject.ca) is a gorgeous gift to the island for reflection and healing from artist Christine Polanchuk. It’s especially enchanting when July’s lavender blooms and evening sunsets stream through its windows.

Pelee’s 10,000 acres of magnificence inspires artists, whose work is found and fostered at small shops around the island, including Pure Pelee and One of a kind Pelee. At Art Works cooperative, art is admired, learned and purchased. In addition to local artists work, 2 Chicks Glass Studio (facebook.com/2ChicksGlassStudio) created beautiful glass hearts they hide islandwide every summer. Finders get to keep the work and are entered in a drawing for a grand glass prize if they send a pick of their find.

Another must — tour Pelee Island Heritage Center to unearth rich indigenous, natural, cultural and shipwreck history. For some of the best sport fishing in North America, Pelee's waters teem with trophy smallmouth bass, Walleye and tasty Yellow Perch. Chante Charters (chantecharters.com) is celebrating 50 years of introducing anglers to the riches of Lake Erie’s western basin.

WHERE TO STAY
The old Pelee Island Hotel sits empty with a faded “For Sale” sign, so cottage rentals and BnBs are best bets. With no master booking engine, reservations are by phone and info lives on barebones Facebook pages. Cottages are typically $200-$300 per night, sleep an entire family and offer sunrise, sunset or beach views and lake access. Most are relaxed, comfy and booked on VRBO or Airbnb. Find an abbreviated list on Pelee.org. (Dreamcatcher and Zephyr are excellent choices.) Reviews at Kiki’s Westview Motel (facebook.com/p/KiKis-Westview-Motel-100090377344594) rooms (around $120/night) praise friendly staff and an unbeatable location a stone’s throw from the ferry dock on the West Side, Pelee’s version of downtown, where picture-perfect sunsets bid a glowing goodnight. East Park Campground (pelee.org/east-park-campground) is a bargain with an excellent public beach. Seven guestrooms and RV camping are offered at The Main Station (facebook.com/TheMainStation)

LET'S EAT
Island wide, friendly service and mostly homemade food means you won’t go hungry. But service can be relaxed (sometimes slow), but worth the wait.

Stonehouse 1891
With a creative menu highlighted by its 800-degree Italian oven that turns out spectacular roast meats, fish and gourmet pizza, Stonehouse is also known for local craft beer, like Atwood-inspired Handmaid’s Ale) and beautifully crafted cocktails, including juicy, rum-and-vodka-fortified Lake Breeze or the classic Canadian Cesar, a Clamato bloody Mary. stonehouse1891.com

Westview Tavern
This stalwart can get jammed on holidays and as ferries arrive and depart. It’s a go-to for ice-cold beer and the best fried fresh perch dinner on Lake Erie. After dinner, volume rises as the party starts and occasional bands take the stage.facebook.com/thewestviewtavern

The Dog and Goat
Attached to the Main Station, this buoyant neighborhood bar draws locals and boaters alike with a pub menu, legendary poutine, darts and a with periodic live music, trivia nights and other events. facebook.com/TheDogandGoat

The Filling Station
Even folks who “don’t eat hotdogs” rave about Debbie’s top-quality dogs and the world’s creamiest soft-serve ice cream enjoyed at a sprinkle of outdoor tables. facebook.com/thefillingstationn

The Shack
Next to the Filling station, this food truck serves pizza, wings, nachos and delicious tacos in soft flour shells (burritos to many) loaded with meat and a variety of toppings. facebook.com/theshackpeleeisland

Scudder Beach Bar
With incredible baked goods and breakfast favorites, this place fills up and can mean a wait, though it’s worthwhile. Bring a hat or even an umbrella on sunny days as its five small tables fill fast and are in full sun. peleeislandadventures.com/scudderbeachbreakfastbar

Coneheads
With scooped ice cream, cold drinks and a few sandwich, snack and breakfast items, Coneheads also has a Putt Putt course.

GETTING THERE
Most importantly, Pelee is in Canada, so DO NOT forget your passport. Americans will go through customs on arrival at the island and on return to the U.S. Bring most everything you’ll need as island resources are limited. Americans are permitted limited alcohol. Bug repellent and sunscreen are musts, as you’ll mosquitos and more. Dogs and bicycles are permitted, and car, motorcycle and boat ferry service is available, albeit very limited from the U.S. All transportation must be booked in advance and car spots go quickly. Arrive at least one hour before sailing. U.S. visitors will find credit cards are accepted at most places and give the best exchange rate. Some merchants use cash and U.S. currency is fine, though traded at par and your change may be a handful of that pretty Canadian money you can’t spend at home.

Reach the island on any of several 90-minute ferry trips from Canada via Leamington April-August and Kingsville (August-November).

From the U.S., the ferry runs Memorial Day weekend to Labor Day, takes 10 minutes more and is offered with far less frequency. Departing from downtown Sandusky, Ohio, parking is free but a few blocks from the Jackson Street Pier, so wheeled totes and coolers are recommended. Americans may drive through customs in Detroit and have greater leeway with Canadian departures and car ferry availability. ontarioferries.com

Book one of multiple daily 20-minute flights with friendly and accommodating family-owned Griffing Flying Service from Erie-Ottawa Airport in Port Clinton for about $175, round trip. flygriffing.com

GETTING AROUND
You can take your car on the ferry to Pelee Island, but why bother? It’s more fun to feel the wind in your hair — and Pelee Island Adventures offers a rental fleet of powerful new golf carts complete with Bluetooth stereos, as well as eco-friendly fat tire e-bikes. There’s also a convenient trolley that can whisk you away to tour venues, parks and beaches. Reserve your wheels in advance at peleeislandadventures.com.

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